Onions
Onions seem to be the ‘flavour of the month’ in the mainstream press. The Independent printed a recipe by Skye Gyngell for a Panade of slow-cooked onions with Emmental, which sounds delicious but it was Nigel Slater’s piece in the Observer that really inspired. And informed too.
Cooking onions is a task worth taking your time over - 10 minutes just isn’t long enough to get their crisp, watery flesh to break down into layers of honey-toned sweetness. Onions, whether small and whole or large and sliced, need a low temperature if they are not to burn and blacken, and plenty of stirring to prevent them colouring unevenly. The warmest of gold, evenly spread throughout, will take a good 25 minutes of an onion’s time.
So that’s the secret - long, slow cooking. The article provides three recipes - Shallots with raisins and cider vinegar, Onion rarebit and Baked onions. The latter I’ve tried several times and served with various different goats cheeses and can highly recommend it. Simply throw those torpedo shaped shallots in the oven until soft and deliciously aromatic and serve with goats cheese. His Kitchen Diaries also has a great recipe, Baked onions with Cream and Parmesan.
[Photo Andrew Barrow]
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