In Sud de France, Caroline Conran explores the food and cookery of the Languedoc, that province bounded by the Rhone, the Massif Central, the Pyrenees and the Garonne. The food is as rich and variegated as the history, the architecture, the landscape and the climate.
“There are warm, sustaining dishes to fuel a strenuous day in the winter’s cold, the dishes that reflect the influence of the Arabs, the Catalans, the French and later the Italian immigrants to the ports of Sete or Agde, the dishes that are as Mediterranean as can be or which look over the mountains north and south to other countries and other cultures”.
A book packed with recipes and background details. Few illustrations, no glossy full coloured food-porn here, but easy to follow, relativly simple recipes each accompanied by a little anecdote or two. Poulet aux Pyrenees (Chicken with Almonds and Pine Nuts) is a simple dish, cooked in one pot that returns a tasty, winter-warming dish expecially when accompanied with Pommes paillasson a l’ail (Doormat Potatoes with Garlic). Follow this perhaps with a Tarte au Chocolate, rich, lightly baked chocolate on a puff pastry base… delicious.
Next up to try from Sud De France: The Food and Cooking of the Languedoc is Magrets de Canard Aux Pommes (Duck Breasts with Fried Apples) and a Tarte aux Chataignes (Chestnut Tart) for a true taste of autumnal France.
“This is not polite France, this is ‘in your face’ France; it’s history buried amidst the Crusades and Cathars, its towns and cities - Nimes, Toulouse, Carcassonne, Narbonne, Perpignan, Montpellier, Beziers - making up a fiecely independent region. Its people are passionate about rugby, about hunting and foraging, with a cuisine of their own, more Southern, simpler, more earthy, and less influence by the Michelin style of cooking than the rest of France. There will be information on the particular specialities such as chestnuts, sweet onions, Bouzigues mussels and oysters, salt cod, poufres (baby octopus), charcuterie, salades sauvages (salads of wild plants), the rose-coloured garlic of Lautrec, wild asparagus and local mushrooms. There are descriptions of places where oysters, truffles chestnuts or calcots - a giant spring onion, eaten roasted on a fire of vine-prunings - are the obsession of everyone in the community.”
Sud De France: The Food and Cooking of the Languedoc
is currently available from Amazon for £19.




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